Banjo's install is the same as everyone else's using a polar mount.
USALS motors will be quite a bit easier due to their design.
As Jens suggested please read the post he linked. It would help if you could print the detailed pages to isolate any of the back and forth posts there.
I'm still a bit "stung" in some 308 conversations with the OP of that thread. It kind of backfired.
As you can see he finally changed his name to some filth once he got his first satellite located after the mount was setup correctly.
If you need specific questions answered that you may not understand. Please refer to them by post number is that thread.
If 300 members step in then I will step aside. The task is not that difficult if you have the aptitude. And can read instructions and pay attention.
If you don't have a clinometer already I would highly suggest that you just invest on a digital angle gauge.
They can be had for not much more than an angle finder with pionter.
And they resolve to 0.1 - 0.01 degree, depending on the brand. That will assist in making very finite adjustments that you will need to make after locking the first satellite.
If you give your coordinates in at least to the 0.1 degree where you live. It not only will help you but us also.
We don't care where you live. Nobody will come to your door selling things.
In post #5. Those are the very first steps. You will have to be accurate. No slop is permitted. None.
What will you use to move the dish? A v-box? Be prepared to use it outside by the dish so that you can move your dish in very small increments.
And please clearly list all of the components that you will be using for your install.
My last attempt to Mr. "Dan Addison". AKA FU All after he changed his name. To assist his many times mentioned "condition" that prevented comprehension of simple instructions let me down quite a lot. Especially after he located his first satellite after 308 messages back-and-forth. Then after locating the first satellite. Told me he was fooling me the whole time and sounded like he had gone to Cambridge.
So. What do you want to do? Put a dish up that tracks TV satellites the sky properly? And do it like a boss?
I have a folder of illustrations that were not shown here. All very informative.
Posts by supwiddiss
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Perhaps sending this portion to a different thread might be appropriate.
So. Tuner 'jumbling', leaving a person figuring out where the original one was reassigned to when adding or enabling additional ones could be addressed by the guru's. Unicable on this side of the pond could be considered a rarity.The tuner in question is the Availink AVL6261. I believe the same one was used in the Octagon SF8008. The newest SF8008 Supreme has a sightly different dual tuner but is still Availink. DVB-T is pretty useless here. Any OTA reception is better handled by one of the supported USB dongles.
Never the less. It looks like the previous SF8008 has very similar blindscan performance as the osmio4k receivers. No wonder. Same tuner. If VU+ used them as well as others. I think that all of the bling of them could be justified.
But to add also. I've heard sometimes blatant responses that European sat. reception is different than USA. It's DVB-S2 variants. Not so much difference to a 'relative novice' to me.
Static and seldom changed satellites.xml files released here and there are fine. But the ball games, occasional feeds, the feed hunters. Or in my case with the osmio4k. Blindscanning and checking for those feeds on new transponders is fun. My satellites.xml file differs widely from the ones you find stuffed into the E2 firmware versions. Some tp's come and some go.
Yeah. A TBS card would be very nice to have and would probably be the best solution for 4:2:2 content. Whether streamed with BDS drivers (Windows) or using linux. Or parked beside your TV. People get sussed of having Kodi and this and that on their satellite receiver when a streaming box works so much better. With the ability to use a BT keyboard and mouse. Is that even available on E2 receivers? Remote controls sure last longer.
I was rather surprised that Edision Hellas tech support responded to me and provided no fewer than 5 tuner drivers to try with the osmio4k.
To try and review and provide feedback. Some were fast but missed a lot of transponders and some were extremely slow but very thorough when doing a blindscan. Some scanned low symbol rates and some had a threshold. That's the kind of i-give-a-crap response that you would expect to get.
Open source or not. Don't know. The receivers were new at the time. I would expect that the Greek techs went right to the horse's mouth in China.
But going back to stream relay. Used when receivers didn't have enough 'oomph' to run softcams without. Like I mentioned. I never have used nor needed stream relay. The actual concept and function is fuzzy to me. But, if in fact there is enough horsepower left in receivers that don't require the usage. What IS the remote possibility that a software transcoder could be incorporated for 4:2:2 ?
Or as the case a while back with the NASA 4k UHD change. Shortly lived. When a new 10 bit codec was used that rendered receivers with a black screen.
VLC didn't even process it. A Microsoft HEVC codec was needed. NASA shortly after reverted back to the previous video format.
The admin of legitfta seems to be a receiver hoarder. A good one at that. Looking for the next latest, greatest receivers. A good review of the latest SF8008 Supreme is here. And it ain't so good comparing it to the previous model.
https://legitfta.com/forum/sho…33-Octagon-SF8008-Supreme -
Reassignment of tuners is interesting. Sort of like adding an external drive to a usb port on a pc or usb hub. The assignments (drive D, E, F, etc.) change depending the port they are plugged into. But you can always set the drive number in settings. At least for Windows.
Would that be an option in E2 images? Even if you had to dive in the file system and edit a setting?
FBC always interested me. But my uses include having excellent blindscan capabilities also. So unless I am misled or things have changed. Having one of those tuners goes out the back door. Or "the bin" as you say.
VU+ won't even tell you anything about the demodulator used in their tuners. Receivers with soldered in tuners at least let you tear apart an Enigma 2 image and check the chipset(s) that may be used in them. Before you install the images.
That would at least tell you if a single or dual tuner would be a good selection for blindscanning. But no.
Even the sponsor is too lazy to open the tuner box and look. And web searches at the best show you blurry photos.
And I'm led to believe also that Broadcom is or has abandoned the FTA receiver chipset niche. Hisilicon seems to be the new kid on the block lately.
So it's no wonder that the supply chain and hopes of your receiver-du jour being restocked soon might be a pipe dream.
Edision removed the osmio4k variants from their website. The latest Octagon SF8008 with dual SX2 tuners is blindscan deficient compared to the original.
It could be just firmware for the different tuner needs development. Just like as the osmio4k tuner drivers were cooked up over time. I dunno.
Another thing that has me wondering personally. 4:2:2 content. Sure, you can stream from your E2 receiver through the webif, to VLC, cast to your TV.
All of the stream relay methods that I have never used or needed. And wouldn't even know how to use. It seems like a way to process. Even if downconverting the video. On an E2 receiver might be possible. Why not?
And multistream. On the box of almost every receiver. No clue at all and very little information on how to utilize it. Every new blindscan turns up more and more multistream broadcasts. Even if they are encrypted. You never know if the channels that may be in them are. Or how many channels are actually in them. Or I missed something! -
Some browser add on you probably don't need anyway.
Whitelist mediafire or just go the the image website.
Why not throw in more details. Browser? Junk you added in? Something your 'virus protection' slipped in on you? -
I would suggest that the Administrators take into consideration of removing this member.
In some 300+ messages assisting him to correctly get his dish properly setup including some very detailed graphics and step-by-step instructions.
And using a very understandable reason of him having autism.
He was very very difficult to get to the point where he could get signal from the very first satellite.
I had suggested that he bring his v-box outside to move the dish in small increments.
Or to get a 12 volt battery. At that point he became very defiant and rude.
At a point he replied that he was fooling me the entire procedure.
And then his rude replies were suddenly very intelligent sounding.Not as in his previous conversations.
I actually felt sorry for the guy.
And more than willing to assist.
He has been banned from several forums because of his apparent pranking and repeated and supposed needing in depth explanations of previous responses to questions of the post topic.
Administrators. If I have a good standing here. Please remove this member as his posts should be assumed as spam.
If you look at the picture. My request was on the left for dish mount markings.
And his results were on the right.
Over and over, people.
It never ended. Yet my patience persisted. Considering his repeated expression of being autistic.
Please do us all a favor and eject him.
Disgusting.jpg -
Facebook. I use no messengers other than.
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Understood. But the question is. Is he steering the dish from tuner port I and receiving tp's from it also?
I think I saw a 'same as' setting.
In other words. Are the DISEqC go-to commands to the v box always coming from tuner port I only.
There is another lnbf on that dish. If he expects the dish to move using port J.
I don't believe port I will send the data string. Port J won't mimic what go-to has to be sent through port I.
But again. What do I know?
Does it work that way with a usals motor? -
Only makes sense. Wherever the dish needs to be steered, the signal has to come from I on slot C.
I may be wrong.
Is tuner port I a push on or F type screw on connector?
"Someone else" programmed the v box. Okay.
So if you tune to 39 E do you get transponders from it?
Do you need to steer it E-W any or is the signal peaked?
How about 23.5 E?
And so on.
You do realize that any E-W position tweaks made with the remote control or panel buttons to peak signal on a chosen satellite will have to be stored again in that memory slot. -
What is your current latitude? Is that written on a piece of paper in front of you? >52.7<
If you know that then you have answered your own question.
Is your latitude 52 degrees North?
What is the solution? NO IDEA
>52.7< Fifty frikkin Two point Seven Degrees
YOU FRIKKIN' ANSWERED IT!!!HOW-LAY-LOO-YA!
Can I get a witness!!!!Do You understand horizontal is 0 degrees? I GUESS
YOU GUESS? STOP GUESSING AND START LEARNING. I's a YES or NO answer. What is YOURS?
Do You understand veritcal is 90 degrees? OK
OK YES or OK NO? It's a question. Answer it.Do You understand half of those two angles is 45 degrees? You have a tool that will tell you. OK
Again........OK YES or OK NO? It's a question. Answer it.
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Stop. Right now. Blue is impossible to read.
Highlight the text you wish to respond to. Right click on it and copy.
Paste it to a new window. Then add your questions.
By now you should know what has already been mentioned.
If you haven't printed the pages of detailed instructions. Do it.
Get a pen or highlighter so you can reference the terminology.
I shall start. You will keep track of the explanations. Or go back to reference what has already been given to you.
Do....you.....understand?
I will do this one more time. And you will go back through the replies and illustrations and make note of the terminologies.
This is not Groundhog Day.
And I do not believe that you are applying yourself.
If you aid attention. This complete task could be done in 1 hour.
I shall do this one more time. But I will not explain what has already been explained to you in the multiple posts here.
1)"In other words. Put your gauge on the flat motor plate and make the angle the same as the latitude (elevation) angle on the pole indicator."
URM..... SO I Put my INCLINOMETER in the dish faceplate (like i did i pic 8??) making sure its at what number? 52 degrees??
Yeah. Exactly like the picture shows. If your latitude is supposed to be X degrees. And you set the pole indicator to that.
Then an imaginary line through the center of the motor shaft will be the same.
And you lower the dish faceplate to the same exact angle.
OK SO I SET IT TO 52?
What is your current latitude? Is that written on a piece of paper in front of you?
If you know that then you have answered your own question.
Is your latitude 52 degrees North?
What is the solution?2)
"Not to confuse you but we could attain the same thing if you just set the pole indicator at 0." > Pole indicator? what do you mean by that?
That would put a bubble level and hopefully your angle gauge level.
"The motor shaft would be 0 degrees too. Level." > Motor Shaft? what do you mean by that?
"And the dish faceplate could be set at the same 0 angle." > do u mean the way i had it before?
Is that something you could do without a bunch of back and forth? > Guess not...
Pole Indicator:
Motor Shaft:
There is only one shaft that moves your dish. It's is the one that protrudes from the motor housing.
Where the brackets are fastened to to mount the dish adapter to and adjust the declination angle.
That shaft is the motor shaft.
What the fuck.jpg3)
If the elevation were set to 0 degrees from the elevation scale.
The motor shaft will be level. Your inclinometer should read 0 if you (once again) were able to place it level with the arrow point on each side of the motor shaft.
The dish adapter plate would also be ideally placed flat across the top of the whole thing so that you also read 0 on the inclinometer.
We are doing this to establish a starting point to align the motor plate for the correct dish reflection angle.
Do You understand horizontal is 0 degrees?
Do You understand veritcal is 90 degrees?
Do You understand half of those two angles is 45 degrees? You have a tool that will tell you.
CAN YOU DO THIS?
AND NOTHING MORE? -
UPDATE 23/1/24: (Grieving a family loss today - BE KIND!!)
So today i have done the following! < SURPRISED?? <
- Removed the faceplate from my dish
Good! - Taken 5 Pictures of the faceplate showing it from all angles! < so you know what it actually looks like!!) (SEE PICS 2,3,4, & 7)
Good! - Reattached the dish faceplate to the motor brackets (at the top ONLY!) (SEE PICS 1, 6 & 8) (Pic 6 & 8 are taken from the top looking down!, Pic 5 is taken from the right hand side; looking at it, pic 1 is taken from the left hand side; looking at it (in case you are wondering!)
Good! Wondering if the pole is absolutely plumb. If it is, no need for pictures.
And the scale on the motor closest to the pole, your elevation angle. Is set.
If you were to hold your inclinometer in line to an imaginery line that goes right through the center of the motor shaft. It should match your elevation angle. Can you put a pic up of that?
There should be two dimples on each end of the motor shaft. Use those for your degree measurement. - I also put my inclinometer on the faceplate as well to show you the current angle it is (currently 60 degrees I KNOW ITS MENT TO BE AT 90 but that's the best I could do in this wind and rain!!) (SEE PIC 8)
To Me My Pic 5 (the dish plate now needs to go either forward at the top to 90 degrees or i need some longer brackets??
No. Actually I would. For a starting point. See if you can loosen the top bolts and reduce the angle so that your inclinometer reads the motor shaft angle.
If you can do this. We can save some math and you will get a better understanding.
In other words. Put your gauge on the flat motor plate and make the angle the same as the latitude (elevation) angle on the pole indicator.
Please forget the 90 degrees thing for now.
The red lines. No need for 100% accuracy for the red line going through the motor shaft. As close as you can visually.
Photo and showing the angle or you telling me the reading you got.
Red line on the dish mount. The same reading you get on the face of it.
Make the skinny red line match the fat motor angle shaft. Please.
Offset Before Offset Adjustment_Cropped.jpg
And get back. I had a few service calls this morning. I'm free now.Things I KNOW I STILL NEED TO DO:
- Make sure the faceplate is at 90 degrees instead of 60 (BY ADDING A WEDGE BETWEEN PLATE AND DISH' See pic below this line) YES OR NO? also drilling holes higher up the mounting plate like in this pic (bit up from bottom?)
- Drill 2 holes 1 in each side of the lower mounting bracket (gold part at the bottom, not currently bolted on) YES I KNOW !
- Bolt my dish to the faceplate from the bottom keeping it at 90 degrees (forward by 10 degrees) adding a wedge of wood or something behind the top part (to stop it falling back on itself) & Try to realign to Thor 0.8w....?
- IM STILL WAITING ON MY NEW INCLINOMETER TO ARRIVE DUE TO THE CURRENT ONE BEING DAMAGED (Keeps falling off)!!
- Oh and wipe the mud of the parts that have mud on them & take Fragile tape of.
- Oh & Add the new Slabs to the ground mount once they arrive & remove the bags of stones & make the ground level (somehow)......
- Oh & have a chilling good time once its all set up! :)
- I HOPE THERE ISNT MUCH MORE TO DO AFTER I DONE THESE STEPS.... ??!! :)
- & Say thanks to you guys for helping! ;)
P.S; My Picture 1 doesn't look to far off from this pic: (DOES IT)?
IF YOU LOOK AT PICTURE 1 YOU WILL SEE WHAT I MEAN!!
THESE NEXT FEW STEPS IM HOPING TO HAVE COMPLETED BY THE END OF THE WEEK/EARLY NEXT WEEK
(WORK & WEATHER DEPENDENT)!!
Anything Else?
I HOPE THIS PROVES IM LISTENING AND READING ALL YOUR REPLYS!!
I'm still 100% committed to this are you for helping me??!!
Hi,
(Your Replys White, Mine Red)
"No. Actually I would. For a starting point. See if you can loosen the top bolts and reduce the angle so that your inclinometer reads the motor shaft angle."
Loosen the two bolts from the 2 brackets that are holding the dish plate on? at the min i haven't drilled new holes in the bottom lower mounting arm (will do when it stops raining) If we can get the measured angles. Holes may not have to be drilled. But I would like you to just do it anyway.
I'm surprised you couldn't just bring everything inside a garage or spot in your home. No rain inside and it's warm."If you can do this. We can save some math and you will get a better understanding."
HOPE SO!
"In other words. Put your gauge on the flat motor plate and make the angle the same as the latitude (elevation) angle on the pole indicator."
URM..... SO I Put my INCLINOMETER in the dish faceplate (like i did i pic 8??) making sure its at what number? 52 degrees??
Yeah. Exactly like the picture shows. If your latitude is supposed to be X degrees. And you set the pole indicator to that.
Then an imaginary line through the center of the motor shaft will be the same.
And you lower the dish faceplate to the same exact angle.
Not to confuse you but we could attain the same thing if you just set the pole indicator at 0.
That would put a bubble level and hopefully your angle gauge level.
The motor shaft would be 0 degrees too. Level.
And the dish faceplate could be set at the same 0 angle.
Is that something you could do without a bunch of back and forth?"Please forget the 90 degrees thing for now."
why?
Because that was another way of thinking. Let's not complicate things any more for you.
Let's just do it my way. You need to master this. And if you do any more setups like this. Hopefully it will make sense and be easier.
Deal? Don't overthink things. Listen to me and me only now."The red lines. No need for 100% accuracy for the red line going through the motor shaft. As close as you can visually."
OK.....
"Photo and showing the angle or you telling me the reading you got."OK.....
"Red line on the dish mount. The same reading you get on the face of it."
OK.....
"Make the skinny red line match the fat motor angle shaft. Please."OK HOW?.....
Well. The slotted adjusters. Loosen bolts and see if you can do it. Please.
And if not. Still lay your inclinometer on the plate and give me a pic and the readings you get.Offset Before Offset Adjustment_Cropped.jpg
PLEASE EDIT ONE OF MY NEW PICS SO I CAN SEE IT THANKS!
- Removed the faceplate from my dish
-
UPDATE 23/1/24: (Grieving a family loss today - BE KIND!!)
So today i have done the following! < SURPRISED?? <
- Removed the faceplate from my dish
Good! - Taken 5 Pictures of the faceplate showing it from all angles! < so you know what it actually looks like!!) (SEE PICS 2,3,4, & 7)
Good! - Reattached the dish faceplate to the motor brackets (at the top ONLY!) (SEE PICS 1, 6 & 8) (Pic 6 & 8 are taken from the top looking down!, Pic 5 is taken from the right hand side; looking at it, pic 1 is taken from the left hand side; looking at it (in case you are wondering!)
Good! Wondering if the pole is absolutely plumb. If it is, no need for pictures.
And the scale on the motor closest to the pole, your elevation angle. Is set.
If you were to hold your inclinometer in line to an imaginery line that goes right through the center of the motor shaft. It should match your elevation angle. Can you put a pic up of that?
There should be two dimples on each end of the motor shaft. Use those for your degree measurement. - I also put my inclinometer on the faceplate as well to show you the current angle it is (currently 60 degrees I KNOW ITS MENT TO BE AT 90 but that's the best I could do in this wind and rain!!) (SEE PIC 8)
To Me My Pic 5 (the dish plate now needs to go either forward at the top to 90 degrees or i need some longer brackets??
No. Actually I would. For a starting point. See if you can loosen the top bolts and reduce the angle so that your inclinometer reads the motor shaft angle.
If you can do this. We can save some math and you will get a better understanding.
In other words. Put your gauge on the flat motor plate and make the angle the same as the latitude (elevation) angle on the pole indicator.
Please forget the 90 degrees thing for now.
The red lines. No need for 100% accuracy for the red line going through the motor shaft. As close as you can visually.
Photo and showing the angle or you telling me the reading you got.
Red line on the dish mount. The same reading you get on the face of it.
Make the skinny red line match the fat motor angle shaft. Please.
Offset Before Offset Adjustment_Cropped.jpg
And get back. I had a few service calls this morning. I'm free now.Things I KNOW I STILL NEED TO DO:
- Make sure the faceplate is at 90 degrees instead of 60 (BY ADDING A WEDGE BETWEEN PLATE AND DISH' See pic below this line) YES OR NO? also drilling holes higher up the mounting plate like in this pic (bit up from bottom?)
- Drill 2 holes 1 in each side of the lower mounting bracket (gold part at the bottom, not currently bolted on) YES I KNOW !
- Bolt my dish to the faceplate from the bottom keeping it at 90 degrees (forward by 10 degrees) adding a wedge of wood or something behind the top part (to stop it falling back on itself) & Try to realign to Thor 0.8w....?
- IM STILL WAITING ON MY NEW INCLINOMETER TO ARRIVE DUE TO THE CURRENT ONE BEING DAMAGED (Keeps falling off)!!
- Oh and wipe the mud of the parts that have mud on them & take Fragile tape of.
- Oh & Add the new Slabs to the ground mount once they arrive & remove the bags of stones & make the ground level (somehow)......
- Oh & have a chilling good time once its all set up! :)
- I HOPE THERE ISNT MUCH MORE TO DO AFTER I DONE THESE STEPS.... ??!! :)
- & Say thanks to you guys for helping! ;)
P.S; My Picture 1 doesn't look to far off from this pic: (DOES IT)?
IF YOU LOOK AT PICTURE 1 YOU WILL SEE WHAT I MEAN!!
THESE NEXT FEW STEPS IM HOPING TO HAVE COMPLETED BY THE END OF THE WEEK/EARLY NEXT WEEK
(WORK & WEATHER DEPENDENT)!!
Anything Else?
I HOPE THIS PROVES IM LISTENING AND READING ALL YOUR REPLYS!!
I'm still 100% committed to this are you for helping me??!!
- Removed the faceplate from my dish
-
Hey EB. How's Mr. Douglas and Eva Gabor? And Mr. Haney. Lol....got coffee?
Read back to the London install. It clearly shows the same motor and mount on what appears the be the same dish.
Oh. Read back more! Declination already has been discussed. And adding that using the scale on the motor bracket After we get the offset angle.
It's just that #1. We have to get the OP to establish the correct declination and the the dish beam angle.
Now there's a new one from the Channel Master manual stating a beam angle (axis) of 16.97 deg. versus the 22.5 deg. that is widely reported if you Google search 'wtf is the offset angle of a CM, Raven, Andrews dish. History showing they're all one in the same. Just licensed from Andrews and down the line.
Declination comes after we match the elevation angle of the motor shaft to the rear dish mounting plate plane. Parallel to each other.
Then drop the front of the dish the 22.5 deg. more than that. Then a new can of worms opens up. What if the beam angle is actually 16.97 deg?
Sharpie time. Yeah....
Read back to the OP's very first post. We have obstacles to hurdle. Enough said.
A prime focus dish would be nice. A simple bolt it up, set elevation and declination. And the usual hunt and tweak.
But we don't. And again. Please take a gander at the London setup. Offset dish using the same motor.
Fairies with boots. I saw it with my own two eyes.
Through the plethora of photos the OP has presented. And the pleading of not being able to attain the correct dish plate angle and interference of the motor arm that prevents him form doing it. Look back. 2 holes. Moves the lower slotted dish bracket closer to the front. More offset angle adjustment.
*Ding*
You make a very valid point. But finding the exact hardware needed will be exhausting and probably a whole hill of beans.
All we need is two drilled holes. I already mocked it up with pieces of cardboard and some not-to-scale dimensions.
It will work. Ummmm...I think. I ain't exactly there.
If Fred EX dropped a box at my door. In the vice the motor pole bracket world go. Elevation set. Dish plate lined up. Dee and Walt helping to drill a few holes.
Plate hardware bolted up. Angles set.
Maybe a chunk of foil on the dish center and a laser pointer in the lnbf throat. Is it 22 or 16? You know.
With a digital inclinometer.
Yeahhh... without a single brain fart.
As mentioned. We have had obstacles to hurdle. Reading technical jargon may not be the OP's forte'. And you gotta' pat the dude on the back for his sheer interest in learning. And. After this I truly hope he does. And not monkey see, monkey do. -
Oh. And hopefully we're not thinking and we're doing something at this point.
Two holes drilled is no biggie. ONCE IT'S DONE. lol!!
And....it's reversible.
These piddly squat motors are nowhere as good as a genuine polar mount with linear actuator.
Mine is still strong after being on the pole since '84.
But....we'll manage.
Did I mention. Once those holes are drilled? And someone learns how to read angles and add and subtract? -
indisposed
off the grid
left the reservation
took a very long stroll on a very short pier
mia
left the buildingelevator stuck between floors!
-
Well time to start believing it. The dish mount is apparently not entirely compatible with the motor and the proper angles cannot be attained.
A few drilled holes should solve the interference problems and allow for a wider range of adjustment.
It will not hurt anything at all at this point in the game.
We just have a bit of a comprension problem to deal with now.
Once those damned holes are drilled!
Of coures you're free to drive over and help him. Kind of a long and cold swim for me. -
....got those holes drilled yet?
.....got your new inclinometer? -
.....drill those holes yet?
-
Some work you do on your own.
Use a channel editor and create bouquets for channels on satellites.
Rename them to their respective channel names. Reorder them.
If a channel cannot be viewed due to many different reasons. Delete them.
Save back to the receiver. And call it a day. -
Well we need to keep a chin up and maintain our composures. With a bit of levity.
At least you can draw and paint good? Oops!!!
I have found (For you) additional information for the dish you have.
And as is widely posted. There seems to be two different dish offset angles.
And this is why it is very important to do the proper modification to your dish mount by drilling the holes.
It will let you make the wider range of adjustments. Should we need them.
I am on the assumption of a 22.5 degree offset (reflection) angle of your dish.
I found (for you) another Channel Master 1.2m dish manual.
In it, it states the offset, reflection, or as is stated the beam angle is 16.97 degrees.
We will address that once you mark and drill the holes in your motor mount.
Just find where you could drill them to give a larger movement of the dish mount like I have instructed you.
Let's keep this simple. Please.
Off Axis.jpgOn Axis.jpg