my friends lx3 has died, I have stripped it down to get the PSU out, only 1 capacitor is bulging, but not 1 in the photos it is situtated next to the yellow capacitor, can anyone advise what to do, the capacitor is 16v if that make any difference
Xpeed LX3 repair to power supply **ALL XPEED LX3 OWNERS SHOULD CHECK THEIR BOX**
- jenseneverest
- Thread is marked as Resolved.
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I replaced bulging capacitor but still dead, anything I could check
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as said before the other caps are likely to be dodgy too.
When you say dead is it completely dead? No LCD display? No led lights at the Ethernet connector??
Dose a usb port light up a usb stick? The stick will need to have a led in it....
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I will setup later to see if anything lights up at the back
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no display, no ethernet light. no usb power
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I haven't got round to looking at mine properly yet. I did take the power supply out of another box i've got which is identical, and tried both in each box. log story short, the power supply on my xpeed lx3 appears to be ok, as it powers up the other box. looking like a mainboard problen somewhere? Mine is absolutely dead, no front display, no rear lights, no fan, nothing.
I'll post up if I get a result.
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I haven't got round to looking at mine properly yet. I did take the power supply out of another box i've got which is identical, and tried both in each box. log story short, the power supply on my xpeed lx3 appears to be ok, as it powers up the other box. looking like a mainboard problen somewhere? Mine is absolutely dead, no front display, no rear lights, no fan, nothing.
I'll post up if I get a result.
Mine is now the same too. Something fried on the mainboard
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thank for the updates
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Any hi-res images of both sides of m/board?
Someone may spot something..
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Any hi-res images of both sides of m/board?
Someone may spot something..
good thinking will dig out the garage the weekend:thumbup:
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master G
Moved the thread from forum Golden Interstar XPEED Support to forum Xpeed LX3. -
Golden Interstar LX3 PSU
All capacitors had 10mm diameter on this PSU
C28 1000uf 25V
C29 1000uf 25V
C26 1000uf 16V
C17 1000uf 10V
C20 1000uf 10V
C23 3300uF 10V
C24 3300uF 10V
C30 680uf 35V
Video on Capacitors
On one receivert, C29 had bulged and C23 had leaked at the bottom. I've removed a few capacitors and will report back on whether replacement fixes it.
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An update, I changed the capacitors listed above (some may not have needed replacing), thankfully the receiver is working.
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An update, I changed the capacitors listed above (some may not have needed replacing), thankfully the receiver is working.
:fist bump:
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well done abu baniaz looks a bit out of my league to repair
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Hi Guys,
I have the same issue with my LX3. No display on the screen. Only sign of life is when I turn the power switch on it makes what can only be described as an electrical noise from the PSU. Upon opening, I noticed that C29 as per Abu's picture above was bulging. I am a total noob at soldering but decided I would have a go at changing the cap anyway. All I could find was a 1000uf 63v cap to replace the 1000uf 25v cap that had gone (is this too big??!!). Even though it was a little bigger, I managed to get it on ok but the box still does not power on and I have the same electrical noise.
None of the other caps look bad but I have noticed some sort of powdery residue on the bottom of the board (around R10) as you can see in the pic I've uploaded. Is this just normal from the factory or has something leaked? I've bought some IPA to try and get that cleaned up. If that still doesn't work, I guess as a last try I will replace the other caps that Abu did to hopefully get it working. It would be a massive shame to lose this box. Will keep you guys posted.
Any advice welcome
supa
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Have a look around the bottom of the other capacitors to see if they have leaked (may be discolored around the base but not necessarily bulging at the top).
Clean off your powdery residue, inspect the tracks to make sure they are not corroded, and look at the flip side of the board for any discoloration.
Also double check that the capacitor you installed is inserted the right way as those type are polarity sensitive afaik.
You should get away with the higher voltage rating.
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UPDATE: So...the IPA came today. I cleaned off all the residue but there is still nothing on the display and the almost chirpy electrical noise still persists. Next stop is to change all the caps that Abu Baniaz changed above.. Wish me luck!
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UPDATE: So after working on this on and off for a week and this being my first soldering job I'm pleased to report that I changed all of the caps that Abu recommended on the PSU and my box is ALIVE!!!! I cant believe it.
So in total I've desoldered and soldered on 8 new caps. I even ended up burning the pads on C30 so I thought I was sunk, but after doing some reading, I was able to bypass them by soldering wire to the cap legs and then to the next component on the trace. It probably isnt the neatest but it does the job.
If that was t enough, I then managed to knock off an SMC on the main board while trying to remove the power connector via its clip. To my surprise the box still boots. The only thing not working is the channel up/down buttons on the front of the box. I'll need those for image updates so will attempt to solder on a new SMC soon. Photos below including my new 'helping hands' which was a godsend. Thanks to everyone for their help!
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can anyone help identify the smd cap in my final pic above. I need to buy a replacement but cant seem to find anyone that stocks one with the same code on it. For ref, it says 3N, 220 16V on it.
Any help appreciated.
Thz
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