I haven't got round to looking at mine properly yet. I did take the power supply out of another box i've got which is identical, and tried both in each box. log story short, the power supply on my xpeed lx3 appears to be ok, as it powers up the other box. looking like a mainboard problen somewhere? Mine is absolutely dead, no front display, no rear lights, no fan, nothing.
I'll post up if I get a result.
UPDATE:
Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread, but my box was dead this morning.
I've swapped out the power supply with the one in my venton hd2, and tested the xpeed lx3 one in that as well. Both power supplies are fine, and power the hd2 properly. Nothing at all in the xpeed lx3. Which means, that it has got to be the main board :thumbdown:
If I have any news, I'll update.
That should be enough info to give you a good idea of what the job entails, but if you have any questions,please fire away.
A couple of edited pictures:
It doesn't matter what voltage you use, as long as you have the same value capacitor (1000uF). I have used the 50 volt version, to give it greater resistance to damage, but you could replace the original 10 volt capacitor with an identical capacitor if you wish. Note the - marking on the side of the capacitors in this picture, and the shorter pins.
The xpeed LX3 power supply board (nicked off Jensen's post ;-) ) It has a fixing screw at each corner. It has two removable plugs on the board. The are the 2 pin mains electricity connector, and the standard molex connector (shown in this picture) for the hard drive. It has a white ribbon cable attached to it, which DOES NOT disconnect from the board. It is fixed to the board, and should be disconnected by unplugging it from its connector which sits underneath the hard drive.
A picture of my Venton HD2 power supply which is very similar. Note that the negative side of the capacitor mounting point is indicated by a black cap or sector. It is very similar on the xpeed LX3 board. As you remove the offending capacitor/s you will see the marking underneath the old capacitor. Replace the new capacitor with the same polarity.
I'll echo Jensen's comments about making sure the mains connection is DISCONNECTED before even removing the cover to start looking at this fix. The potential for shock after that is very small, and in my experience, the size of capacitors in these power supplies aren't enough to give you even a small shock, but as he says, shorting something to anther component could easily blow something else. Transistors and Integrated circuits don't handle sudden power surges well. That said, this is a very easy fix, as again he says, which should be a very simple procedure.
I'm a bit pressed for time until the weekend, where I hope to get the box off the shelf, and strip it to take pictures and do a proper tutorial, but here's a basic tutorial:
1: REMOVE THE MAINS POWER FROM THE BOX !!!!!!
2: Remove the 5 screws that hold the metal lid on the box, and slide it to the rear to remove it.
3: If your box has an internal hard drive (I can't imagine many don't?), remove the screws and the SATA/power cable, from the drive, and lift it out of its cradle. Put it to one side.
4: The ribbon cable that connects the power supply to other components is underneath it. Gently press on the tab on the side of the connector strip to unplug it (you might need to get a flat edged screwdriver to prise the tab on the side of the connector to allow the plug to be removed, be gentle). DO NOT try to remove the end that is connected to the pcb (printed circuit board) of the power supply itself, it is fixed, and permanent. If you break that end, you'll have a lot of soldering to do to rectify it.
5: Unplug the "molex" connector that feeds the hard drive.
6: Unplug the small two pin connector which is the mains power supply to the pcb.
7: Unscrew the four screws (one at each corner) that hold the pcb onto the chassis of the box.
8: Jiggle the board out of the box, so you have it free in your hand. (Not strictly necessary, but removing and soldering components in place can be tricky, this makes it easy).
9: Locate the capacitors mentioned in this thread, and identify where they are soldered to the pcb. In my case, only one capacitor had bulged, so it was easy as it's close to the edge of the board.
10: Remove the capacitor/s ( TAKE NOTE OF THE POLARITY OF THE CAPACITOR AS YOU REMOVE IT). The Capacitors have markings identifying positive and negative terminals. Usually on capacitors, it is the negative (-ve). Again, usually it is a stripe on the side of the capacitor with a "-" or -ve" marking on it. Use a soldering iron of a low wattage, and de-soldering tape, or a "solder sucker". If you're lazy like me, or can't find your solder sucker, simply apply the soldering iron to on side of the capacitor and as the solder melts, apply pressure to pull the connection through the board. Do the same to the other side, and don't worry if you don't get it in one go, simply do one side and then the other to stagger it out. Once the capacitor is off the board, use the soldering iron to clean the solder away from the connection so you can see the hole which you will have to put the legs of the new capacitor though. If the hole is blocked with solder, you won't be able to get the legs back through the board to position it.
10: Once you have replaced the capacitor with the new one, apply the soldering iron, and solder it back to the board. If, like me you have used a higher voltage version of the capacitor, you will probably need to "jiggle" it to make sure it doesn't put pressure on the components surrounding it, as the capacitor will be slightly larger than the original. It's ok if it touches other components, and won't short out that way, but for air flow and thermal reasons, leave a gap. There's plenty of room.
11: Replace the power supply pcb board back in the chassis, connect all the relevant cables/plugs from it and the hard drive, and put the lid of the lx3 back on.
12: Connect all the relevant leads HDMI/ethernet/dish connections etc. The last connection you should make, is putting the mains cable back into the box. Power it up.
13: The box should show the normal booting/loading/percentage....etc etc, that it usually does, and load up.
14: Put the kettle on/crack a beer.
15: Enjoy
As is typical, scratching around in the bit box at work revealed a bag full of 50 V 1000uf caps. I've wasted £1.38 !!! ;-)
All working brilliantly. Updated to latest openvix release, and fresh bootloader, and she's flying.
A virtual beer to you Jenseneverest :thumbup:
Thank you very much.
I took the liberty of mentioning your thread on world of sat, as another lx3 owner had the exact same symptoms, hopefully, he finds it as useful as I did.
For those of you that may be interested, the 50v capacitor is slightly larger than the standard, but there is plenty of room to lift it off the board, and keep it away from the nearby components. The higher voltage rating should beef up its tolerance to anything the power supply can throw at it.
Ordered on Fleabay for the princely sum of £1.38 !, Should be here Tuesday. I'm going to replace both caps with 25V versions. It doesn't make any difference to performance, just makes it less likely the 10V one will fail again. When I was repairing TV's and videos, we frequently beefed up blown caps with higher voltage rated versions. I'll keep an eye on the 25V one, and might uprate that to a 33V if necessary?
Exactly the same thing happened to me. I've attached a pic of the bulge in the capacitor on mine. The symptoms were exactly the same as you describe.
Thank you very much for spotting this. 564e6d4d280cf0c70e907c.jpg
I have added Delay: 50 ms delaying answers from cache
So far its working lets see if freezing come back as it does
Can you post the cache settings that are working for you please, as I'm getting this problem as well. I've tried a few different sets of configs without success so far.
2015/01/14 08:21:51 XXXXXX c XXXXXX (0963&000000/FFFF/0000/1DC8/63:A44D8601785543D3D902395CC146E901.66B06576_0000000000000000B30835F05172874A): found (92 ms) by ***uk - Dave Ja Vu
2015/01/14 08:21:51 XXXXXX c XXXXXX (0963&000000/FFFF/0000/196A/63:A44D8601785543D3D902395CC146E901.66B06576_00000000000000000000000000000000): not found (89 ms) by ***uk - DaveGetting some odd results?
Glitching still happening with the settings suggested here, but less so. The curiosity is, when I set one receiver on Dave, and the other on dave ja vu, it fails?
2015/01/14 08:21:51 XXXXXX c XXXXXX (0963&000000/FFFF/0000/1DC8/63:A44D8601785543D3D902395CC146E901.66B06576_0000000000000000B30835F05172874A): found (92 ms) by ***uk - Dave Ja Vu
2015/01/14 08:21:51 XXXXXX c XXXXXX (0963&000000/FFFF/0000/196A/63:A44D8601785543D3D902395CC146E901.66B06576_00000000000000000000000000000000): not found (89 ms) by ***uk - DaveI've removed cache settings from oscam.conf, and it still does it?
I too have been having this problem, with almost identical circumstances. As mentioned, it was almost always during advert breaks, suggesting that sly were testing something.
Every time it happens, oscam, and cccam both report ecm times from cache as 0mS. I've tried a few settings gleaned from the net, but nothing that has reported any success.
Anyway, settings have been entered, fingers crossed ?
Found this thread at the top of google. I'd had the exact same problem.
I put the settings suggested into oscam.conf, and so far it seems ok?
One thing, my ecm times have jumped from circa 90mS to over 300mS. This doesn't appear to be a problem though?
Edit to add:
Not over 300mS, it's exactly 200mS slower than normal. Not understanding exactly how this cache works, I'm presuming it is an injected delay to do the cwc cycle check?
- - - Updated - - -
Still happening?
- - - Updated - - -
It's better, but still glitching?
It appears he is trying to set up on a windows box?
If so, this will be useful.
Get oscam installed, and then go from there.
Thanks all. Ive got oscam.services running, but Im guessing its not complete.
Load balancing is enabled, I will check if the save path is set.
It appears to check the card, then hand the ecm to the other reader.
I was wondering if there was any way of stopping it?
The channels clear, it just fills the log with "channel not subscribed" errors.
All purely hypothetical of course.....
I was wondering how it would be possible to stop a second card attempting to handle an entitlement it didn't have.
An example would be:
Two cards, one with everything but a certain sport channel, one with some other stuff, and the sport channel in question. It would be easy enough to get both cards to read, but the second one would be handling requests it couldn't clear?
How would the second card be restricted, without using oscam.services ?
still getting no or unknown card inserted , ? im at a loss seems im not ment to share cards lol
Stupid question, but sometimes mistakes happen.......
Have you tried the card the other way up.
I spent two days trying to get an omnikey working with the card in the wrong way !
Since I posted in this thread, I have formatted my server, added some RAM, and re-installed ubuntu, because I was still getting the same problem on reboot.
I have done all the edits, correctly this time ;) and I'm still getting the same problem.
If I disable reader 2, reboot the server, and then enable it, and restart oscam, they work fine?
I've tried locking the usb ports down, as per the smargo tutorial, and tried removing "detect = cd", but it made no change.
I'm wondering what to try next?
I also have a OmniKey Reader but not 100% what the below means?
And change thise lines by removing # from front and reader_drivers lines u delete one comand too:
reader_drivers = pcsc, ctapi;
try_emulation_first = yes;
lock_login = false;
Open terminal, and enter this:
nano /etc/opensc/opensc.conf
Hit enter.
Scroll down, and find:
reader_drivers = ctapi; edit it to look like:
reader_drivers = pcsc, ctapi;
There are two instances of:
reader_drivers = ctapi; I edited the first one, and left the second as it was.
Scroll down further, and find:
try_emulation_first = yes; it has a hash # in front of it, remove it, to make the line active.
Scroll down again, until you find:
#lock_login = true;, and change it to lock_login = false; Remove the hash, and set the value to false.
Scroll down quite a long way, and you will find something like:
#provider_library = /libpcsclite.so.1 I forget if it has the hash in front of the line, if so remove it, and add the /lib/ to the front of the library.
To search while in nano, hit ctrl and w (it stands for "where"). Enter "libpcsclite" in the search box and hit enter. It should take you straight to the corresponding line to edit. If you are having difficulties, just scroll down very slowly, and read every line until you find it.
Hit ctrl x then y when prompted to save, and enter when it displays the filename.
It cant find the cccamoscam_install_package, make sure you put the contents of this folder into the /tmp directory.
If I remember correctly, doesn't the filename have capitals in it as well? ie /tmp/CccamOscam_Install_ or something like that?
Might have missed that?
